April 22, 2025

From the Desk of the Tropical Fish Aquarist

An Old Aquarist comments on the Hobby

I have been keeping fish for over 60 years.  I have watched fish keeping and aquarium stores evolve over that time from a pre-historic pastime to a very exciting chapter where the hobby exploded and changed radicaly in almost every facet.  We are now in an age of slow maturation.  I haven't seen a lot of changes in threpast decadeor two. 

The first major advancement waa the invention of silicone.  It is an adhevie that powerfully binds glass plate together.  It was not long after itwas invented that fish tanks began to move from slate bottomed tanks created using glass plates , cauin and stailess steel frames on all esgs.  The new style was suddenl guranteeed for life (silicon does hold and keep its proeties for at least 10 years) that did not leak after a few month to years of use with the caulking drying out.  Suddenly an aqiaroum was a mch more reliable glass box that didn't leak for no reason.  

Keeping freshwater fish is now a pretty well established system where almost everyone can be successful from the very beginning.  Besides the invent of siloicone, there have been serious changes over the past 60 years, the filtration in the most basic system is where most of the radical changers have been made, but to be honest I was happy to be the one who was involved with the introduction of the AquaClear system, a filter concept that took a lot from the Biozonic style filter chamber that separated the filtration material and added the idea that the various types of the  media needed to be changed on a varying time schedule.  

The other major change has been the evolution of how rtthe aquariu is being illuminated. In the 60's you couldn't keep a plant alive on the aqurium, other than the most hardy species.  that was because the only lighting was the showcase light bulb that could drive no more than 25 Watts of light into the aquarium.  There was a 40 W variety, but it burned so hot is literally burned the sockets and melted them if thy were used.

In the second decade of the 21st century we have changed entrely away from incandescent lamps and moved to LED  lighting that can even be submered right into the aquarium itself.  With the sudden explosion of the LED, the biggerst explosion in plant keeping has occured that has benefitte the fish you keep substantially.  Even the most delicate plants can be satisfied for their illumination requiremetns with an artificial light source.  

There have been strong gains in reliable aqurium heaters, they are much more reliable, a newe;ectronioc style of heater has ben ontrodiced to the old bi-metalloc strip versions.  Thise have overall become more reliable fo rthe tank to remain in a much more stble operation. But the major problem of limits has not been addressed very well in that time.  The heater in most cases tracks the outside temperture and wil rarely be able to hold the tank steadty of the outside tempeature s too loow, the heater will simply wok too hard over time.  The digital heates do muh better nowada, because the temperaturwe they montior, for the most part is the water temperatire rather than the air temperature from the outside like the standard non submersible clip-on heaters.

Food is onme of themaoin diffeences that has evolved over time.  there are all types of foods available.  In the bneginning you could get a flake food, pretty much made for every fish, o mattee the species. If you wanted omething different for your fsh, it ws up to you to to find alternatives, wthout grossing out your mother with live eorms and flies kept on the family refrigeerator.  Nowadays the fish can be fed with processe foods that provide the complete niutrition required for each fish, withiut having to resort to growing your on cultures or other live style foods.  Frozen and freeze dried has becomemuch more reasdily available offerng even broader nitritional variety.

Steve Pond
Tropical Fish Aquarist

Freshwater Tropical Fish of the Week

Jack Dempsey - Rocio octofasciata

Once I found the fascination of cichlids, first with German blue rams, then with the larger Central and South american cichids, the next task was to breed them.  I was lucky, I got a used 110 gallon wrought iron framed aquarium with three bottoms as a used tank and started from there.  Oscars, Jack dempsey, firemouths and a few others were readily available in the early to mid 70s so they were the fish I chose becasue I know they were colorful, active and active. All started as juveniles with the Jack Dempseys soon becoming the top fish of the habitat.  As they grew, they paired and suddenly I found all the fish staying in one quarter of the tank and a pair of very aggressive Jack Dempseys patrolling the other 3/4s of the tank as their own. 

The name was a very suitable one I soon found out as I watched them spawn on their cleaned rock in the back corner of the aquarium.  They got even  more aggressive, if that was possibke, when the eggs appeared in their approriated nest.  It was the first time I had to use my hospital tank and change it into a fry tank.

Introduction to the Jack Dempsey Cichlid

The Jack Dempsey, or Rocio octofasciata, is a striking freshwater cichlid hailing from the warm, tranquil waters of Central America. Known for its vibrant appearance and robust personality, this species is a favorite among aquarium enthusiasts. Its name, inspired by the famous American boxer Jack Dempsey, aptly reflects its feisty and sometimes aggressive nature, particularly during breeding periods.

Natural Habitat and Water Conditions

Jack Dempseys are typically found in slow-moving waters such as rivers, lakes, and drainage ditches across regions in Mexico, Honduras, Guatemala, and Belize. These environments are rich with hiding spots, provided by submerged branches, leaf litter, and rocky outcrops, which offer them security and comfort.

In captivity, replicating their natural habitat is crucial for their health. They thrive in warm waters, with temperatures ranging from 75°F to 86°F. The ideal pH level is slightly alkaline, between 6.5 and 8.0, and they prefer moderately hard to hard water, with general hardness values from 9 to 20 dGH. Maintaining pristine water quality is essential, with ammonia and nitrite levels kept at zero, and nitrate levels below 20 ppm.

Aquarium Setup

To accommodate their territorial nature, a spacious tank of at least 55 gallons is recommended for a pair of Jack Dempseys. A sandy or fine gravel substrate is ideal, as these fish enjoy digging and rearranging their environment. The tank should feature rocks, caves, and driftwood to provide ample hiding places. While plants can be included, be aware that they may be uprooted by these energetic fish.

A robust filtration system is vital to handle their waste and maintain optimal water conditions. Regular water changes and consistent monitoring of water parameters are key to ensuring their health and longevity.

Breeding Behavior

Breeding Jack Dempseys can be a rewarding experience. These cichlids are substrate spawners, laying eggs on flat surfaces like rocks or in carefully excavated pits. They form monogamous pairs, with both male and female actively participating in spawning and caring for their offspring. A separate breeding tank is advisable, with flat rocks or slates for egg deposition. Slightly raising the water temperature to around 82°F can stimulate reproductive behavior.

The courtship process involves elaborate displays and meticulous cleaning of the spawning site. Once the female lays between 500 to 800 eggs, the male fertilizes them. Both parents are incredibly protective, fanning the eggs to ensure they remain aerated and free from debris. The eggs typically hatch within 3 to 5 days, influenced by the water temperature. Once the fry are free-swimming, they require a diet of infusoria or specially formulated fry foods, gradually transitioning to finely crushed flakes or pellets as they grow.

Diet and Compatibility

For optimal health, a varied diet is crucial for Jack Dempseys. This includes high-quality pellets, live, and frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms. Avoid overfeeding to prevent water quality issues.

While Jack Dempseys can coexist with other large, robust fish, their aggressive tendencies, especially during breeding, necessitate careful selection of tank mates. Providing a safe and stress-free environment is essential for their well-being.

Jack Dempseys are a dynamic and visually stunning addition to any tropical freshwater aquarium. By replicating their natural habitat and offering attentive care, aquarists can enjoy the vibrant presence and fascinating behaviors of these remarkable cichlids. With the right environment and diet, they can thrive and even breed successfully in captivity, providing a rewarding experience for any fish enthusiast.

The Community

An Old Style Aquarist Toolkit - Part 1

The Mental Toolkit - Daily Routine

I started keeping fish on a slate bottomed aquarium framed by stainless steel and caulked to hold the water in.  By today's standards, it was primitive and had little filtration or reliable heat.  Lighting was minimal, the only style available was the repurposed showcase bulbs that came in 15, 25 and 40 Watt versions.  You could only use the first two since the 40 watt bulbs burned so hot that they melted the plastic socket shell they were screwed into.

I was 10 and had little information as to what I was doing.  Pet stores were not on every corner like today.  It took a half hour of driving to get to the closest one that had a proper aquarium section, more importantly someone who actually knew what was going on in the aquarium before biological filtration had become identified and understood as a powerful force in the aquarium. It was mostly people with long experience keeping fish alive in individual aquariums in their stores, there was no such thing as a large connected central filtration system.

Given these circumstances, it soon became apparent I was on my own when there was a problem in the aquarium no matter what it actually was,  Avid aquarists like myself were on our own for the most part and it forced a lot of trial and error and careful observation.  It soon became apparent certain things were required in our assorted toolkits to prevent and cure problems that happened.

There are a few actions that are part of the toolkit, there are some procedures and finally some standard items that all become the way to troubleshoot the problems you face, I still do most of them until this day, so I think it important to offer as the way to troubleshoot for solving problems.

1) Daily checks - watch the tank on a daily basis.  Put your hand on the tank every time you feed the tank to gradually get a feel for the aquarium temperature.  If it feels odd, it is your first warning flag.

2) Feed the tank once a day as much as the fish can COMPETELY consume in two minutes with nothing hitting the bottom.  Anything left over after that time, will eventually kill your system'

3) Inspect he tank during feeding time, don't just dump the food into the tank and walk away. You have a two minute window each day to take stock of the tank.  Observe the way the filter is operating, does it look normal?  The take a look at the bottom of the tank, be sure there are no dead fish, no odd amounts of debris that may be sitting there and rotting.  The inventory the living specimens, make sure you see each and every fish that is supposed to be in there.   

Look at each individually to ensure it is colorful and active.  Fish are excellent at hiding problems of any type.  They are in an environment where any weakness is pounced op immediately.  A bit of weakness can result in sudden death from attack by tankmates.

The Physical Toolbox

1) Gravel Cleaner and bucket

The first thing you need is a gravel cleaner.  Regular water changes of about 10% a week are required.. I don't do it every week, it can be done every two weeks with 20% removed and replaced.  For this operation you need a gravel cleaner and a dedicated bucket.  The dedicated bucket should never be exposed to anything other than dirty aquarium water or fresh replacement water.  

2) Chlorine/Chloramine Remover

You should know what the municipality is adding to tap water to make it safe to drink for humans.  Normally this is either chlorine or chloramine.  Earlier issues have gone into the difference between the two, but the final take-away is that neither should even be allowed into an aquarium.  Remove them before they enter the tank, normally this is done on the water bucket dedicated exclusively to the aquarium as mentioned in 1).

Always ensure you have enough in stock to do at least a full water change in an emergency.

3) Glass scraper

Depending on your set-up, if sunlight hits the glass, there will be explosive algae growth.  The glass scraper and/or hand sponge is required to remove deposits that grow on the glass and decorations over time.  Unless you are lucky and have a very active algae remover bottom fish at work, there will usually be algae trying to take over the tank.

4) Aquarium Salt

The original disease cure.  Aquarium salt is a multi-use product that can be used to disinfect and purify the tank in case of bad outbreak, but it also adds electrolytes and hardness that can help in overall maintenance of the tank.  If the tank goes bad, often a dosage of aquarium salt can help to rebalance the tank and let it run better.  DO not use iodized salt.  I would recommend that this addition to your toolkit always be purchased from an aquarium store; labelled and sold as such.

5) Nox-Ich - anti Ich dye - malachite green

One of the most common diseases in the aquarium is Ich, a parasite that clamps onto the body of a fish as a small white spot that looks like grains of salt.  It can occur whenever the temperature suddenly drops an stresses the fish.  It is also common from newly added fish that were stressed as a result of transportation from the store to the new home.  It is fairly easy to control if caught early.  Nox-Ich, by a company called Weco has been around as long as I can remember, it is an extremely concentrated dye that kills ichthyophthiriosis when used as directed. 

6) Erythromycin - fungi remover and general antibiotic

When a tank is left dirty for an extended period of time, small white puffs of fungus are often the result.  I suggest careful bottom cleaning with a gravel cleaner and the use of erythromycin.  This may o may not be available in your local area due to drug laws. Always use as directed

7) Full change of filter media

Sometimes things go bad in an aquarium, usually when you are unable to access the live fish store in your area. As a prevention, you should always have a full change of the filter media used n your filter on hand in case of such an emergency.  If you are treating for a disease, often you should remove the filtration media while treating and replace with new material when the treatment has terminated.

Q: What is the ideal water temperature for freshwater tropical fish?

A: - The ideal water temperature for freshwater tropical fish is typically between 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

Q: How often should I feed my freshwater tropical fish?

A: - Most freshwater tropical fish should be fed small amounts 2-3 times a day, but this can vary based on the specific species.

Q: How often should I clean my freshwater tropical fish tank?

A: - It is recommended to do partial water changes (20-30%) every 1-2 weeks and clean the tank and decorations as needed to maintain good water quality for your freshwater tropical fish.

Filtration Options - Part 6

Chemical FIltration

Chemical Filtration in Aquariums: Transforming Water Quality

Maintaining pristine water conditions is the cornerstone of successful aquarium keeping, and chemical filtration stands at the forefront of this critical process. Unlike mechanical filtration that removes physical debris or biological filtration that breaks down waste, chemical filtration operates on a molecular level, actively transforming and purifying water through sophisticated chemical interactions.

Activated carbon represents the most widely used and versatile chemical filtration media in the aquarium hobby. This remarkable substance works through a process of adsorption, where its incredibly porous surface captures dissolved organic compounds, medication residues, and color-causing molecules. Aquarists appreciate activated carbon for its ability to remove unpleasant odors and clarify water, creating a cleaner and more aesthetically pleasing environment for aquatic life. However, its effectiveness is not permanent; typically, activated carbon should be replaced every three to four weeks to maintain optimal performance.

Water treatment begins before the water even enters the aquarium, with chlorine and chloramine removers playing a crucial role in creating a safe aquatic environment. These chemical treatments use specialized compounds like sodium thiosulfate or vitamin C derivatives to neutralize toxic chlorine and chloramine found in municipal water supplies. By instantly transforming these harmful chemicals, these treatments protect both fish and the delicate beneficial bacteria that maintain the aquarium's biological balance.

Beyond basic water treatment, more advanced chemical filtration media address specific water chemistry challenges. Phosphate removal media, for instance, tackles excess nutrients that can trigger problematic algae growth. These specialized compounds, often based on aluminum or ferric oxide, work to extract phosphates from the water, improving clarity and preventing potential ecological imbalances in the aquarium ecosystem.

Ion exchange resins represent another sophisticated approach to chemical filtration. These remarkable media can soften hard water, remove heavy metals, and precisely control mineral content by strategically exchanging unwanted ions with more desirable alternatives. Aquarists dealing with specific water chemistry challenges find these resins invaluable in creating optimal environments for sensitive fish species.

The mechanisms of chemical filtration are complex and fascinating. Adsorption occurs when molecules physically attach to the surface of filtration media, with activated carbon being the most prominent example. Ion exchange involves a dynamic swapping of ions to balance water chemistry, while chemical neutralization directly transforms harmful compounds into harmless substances. Each of these processes contributes to creating a stable and healthy aquatic environment.

Successful implementation of chemical filtration requires careful consideration and best practices. Media should be placed in the final stage of filtration, after mechanical and biological filtration stages, to ensure maximum effectiveness. Regular replacement is crucial, as chemical media lose their potency over time. Aquarists must also be mindful of potential interactions between different filtration media, consulting compatibility charts to avoid unintended chemical reactions.

While chemical filtration offers numerous benefits, it is not without limitations. The process can be costly, requiring regular media replacement, and may inadvertently remove beneficial trace elements. However, for most aquarium enthusiasts, the advantages far outweigh these minor drawbacks. The ability to rapidly improve water quality, remove invisible contaminants, and precisely control water chemistry makes chemical filtration an indispensable tool in modern aquarium management.

For those serious about maintaining exceptional water quality, investing in high-quality chemical filtration media is essential. Products like API Activated Carbon, Seachem Prime chlorine remover, and specialized phosphate removal compounds can make a significant difference in aquarium health. By understanding and implementing these advanced water treatment techniques, aquarists can create thriving aquatic environments that showcase the beauty and complexity of underwater life.

As our understanding of aquatic chemistry continues to evolve, so too will the technologies and methods of chemical filtration. What remains constant is the fundamental goal: to create the most optimal, healthy, and vibrant environment possible for our aquatic companions.

Ensure to provide a variety of hiding spots in your fish tank for your freshwater tropical fish, such as plants, caves, and decorations.

This will reduce stress and promote natural behaviors in your fish.

Beyond the Basics:

Advanced Aquarist Adventures

Aquaponics for Aquarists

a hobby within the hobby

Integrating Aquatic Life and Hydroponics for Aquarists

Aquaponics for Home Aquarists - Part 1

Introduction:

Aquaponics creates a system that combines aquaculture (raising aquatic animals) and hydroponics (cultivating plants in water) in a mutually beneficial environment. We'll show you the basics of setting up your own aquaponics system, where your aquarium fish will thrive, and you'll also cultivate live crops with minimal maintenance.

Understanding the Aquaponics System:

Aquaponics models a natural ecosystem where plants and fish co-exist and support each other. Fish waste acts as organic food for the plants, and the plants naturally filter the water for the fish. This symbiotic relationship reduces the need for water changes and synthetic fertilizers, making it an efficient and eco-friendly option for aquarists.

The main difference between Hydroponics and Aquaponics is that fewer supplements are required for the aquaponic system as the plants use the wastes of fish living in the system. Hydroponics uses non-organic, and often toxic fertilizers to feed the plants, so the environment is not conducive to combining fish into the system.

Setting up your Aquaponics System:

You'll need an aquarium, a fish of your choice, grow-bed or plant holder, water pump, and lighting.

The Aquarium

The size and type of your aquarium will depend on the species of fish you choose to raise. Ensure the aquarium has enough space for the fish to move freely.

Choosing Your Fish

Choose fish that are hardy and adapt well to changing conditions. Some popular choices for beginners are Central and South American cichlids, tilapia and gouramies.  The really passive and tiny community fish can be used, but they ae so small they may not create enough wastes over time.,  Medium sized fish in a medium to large aquarium are preferred.

The Grow Bed

The grow bed should be placed above the fish tank. You can use a variety of materials, including gravel, clay pebbles, or coconut coir. House the substrate in a safe container that does not leach toxins that could hurt the fish over time.

Water Pump and Filtration

Install a water pump to move water from the tank to the grow bed. The plants will act as a natural filter, cleaning the water before it returns to the tank.

Lighting

Both your plants and fish need light to thrive. Position your terrestrial plant setup near a natural light source or invest in a full-spectrum growing light canopy to be positioned above the plants.  The aquarium should not be lit by natural light to prevent the overgrowth of algae, so often a strip of LED  lighting is placed above the fish.  Thee are no plants kept in the aquarium so standard non-grow bulbs are often best to use for Aquarium lighting.  There is no rule against Aquascaping the tank, so if you do plan on making the tank accommodate aquatic plants, then suitable lighting fixtures and spectrums should be employed. For me this is too complex. But, it is quite possible to do.  I would choose waterproof LED strip lighting to be hung above the aquarium in this case.

Choosing Your Plants:

You can grow a wide variety of plants in an aquaponic system. Lettuce, spinach, and herbs like basil and mint are excellent beginner choices.  The limits are often the depth of the water reservoir and the substrate holding the roots in the system.  The largest grow baskets I have been able to source are 5" diameter and about 6" depth, so the plants can be just about any crop you require that doesn't grow to extremely high tops with minimal support such as corn and sunflowers.  Experimentation is the best way to determine the final nature of your crop and what you harvest.

Maintaining Your Aquaponics System:

Regularly check your water's pH level, monitor the fish for any signs of stress or disease, and prune your plants as needed.  Steady temperatures of the water maintains proper temprature for the plants. Unlike hydroponics where there is no feedback on the bottom end,  The fish are your first sign and best place to monitor often. If the fish are doing well and are not stressed, the plants should be doing fine!

Aquaponics is an exciting and rewarding journey that brings the natural ecosystem into your home. It's a sustainable and low-maintenance option that allows you to enjoy the best of both worlds: a vibrant aquarium and fresh home-grown crops.

Remember, in aquaponics, the health of the fish is paramount. After all, they're not just the pets you love but also the heart of this thriving ecosystem.

Send in your questions

You can ask questions about keeping fish healthy at: 

tropicalfishaquarist@gmail.com

Kid's Nook

Subscribe to the newsletter:

https://tropicalfishaquarist-news.com/tropicalfishaquarist

Browse our Archives:

https://tropicalfishaquarist-news.com/archive