Tropical Fish Aquarist Bi-Weekly Newsletter

Water Tip 9 - The weight of water

Preparing for a New Aquarium - Part 2

The physical requirements of the location

The very first thing you need to consider when starting your first tank is where it is going to be placed. There are a number of considerations that need to be taken into account.

The weight of water

Water is very heavy, over 8 pounds per gallon. When you include the weight of the decorations and substrate, it often rises to at least 10 pounds per gallon of aquarium capacity. That is the figure I always use to decide where I am going to place the tank. The location must be able to handle and accept the weight of the tank for a long period of time.

Because of this, I never recommend using any type of furniture to support the aquarium other than a manufactured stand that is designed to support and distribute the weight correctly. Even a 5 gallon tank will average at least 50 pounds, sitting on a table or other flat surface for extended periods of time can slowly cause the support to shift, which for a glass box, that can be deadly.

Anything over 10 gallons should always have a properly manufactured aquarium stand, and in many cases 10 gallons is already stretching the support over time. Originally aquariums were made out of glass plates held in place over a slate bottom with stainless steel frames. The box was caulked and expected to leak in a few years as the caulking dried out and weakened. The support had to be perfectly flat; flex and warp resistant. Any warping could easily cause the slate bottom of the glass plates to crack.

Aquarium Construction with Silicon

Then came the true savior of the aquarium industry - silicone. It is light, extremely strong and holds its bonding strength for many years without getting dried out or brittle. In fact it is so strong, aquariums are now made solely of glass and silicon only. A true glass box.

empty glass aquarium on stand

Many aquariums come with a plastic frame. This is not required for the integrity of the glass box, the silicone does the job by itself, however, to more rapidly and reliably manufacture an aquarium quickly, as well for aesthetic looks, often an aquarium will include a top and bottom plastic frame around the rim. The top frame is often useful for securing a proper cover over the tank to reduce evaporation, hold a lighting fixture and keep nervous fish from jumping out.

The bottom frame was used to insert the edge of the glass side into and hold it into place while the other sides were assembled. This type of construction does allow for a small airspace under the bottom of the frame, the glass was put into the frame and creates a floating bottom allowing the frame to flex very slightly if the support plate shifted and settled a bit over time. The price of plastic has risen and many manufactures have moved to frameless tanks.

The problem with frameless aquariums is that, while glass is very strong and durable, it is weak on the lateral dimensions. If the support shifts from level, the pressure on the lateral edges can easily cause a stress crack in the tank without any outward appearances or warnings.

Use a properly manufactured support stand

for any tank you install.

Furniture may appear sturdy and flat, but it often has places where heavy items will cause it to shift, usually enough to cause a stress crack on the plates without warning. Repeated water exposure over time can also cause the wood to expand, crack or warp. Purchase a manufactured aquarium stand for the tank that you decide to purchase. Otherwise, you are setting yourself up for a flood from a cracked tank. The only real support that is required is the corners of the aquarium. They must be supported and level at all times.

Always place your aquarium on a supporting wall

Just any wall will not be best for an aquarium. You should be using a supporting wall, one which is part of the actual structure of the room. Outside walls are usually supporting walls. Inside walls sometimes are, but they can also be much more flimsy supports for the stand.

Older houses often creak and bounce as you walk by, if this occurs, the area is not a very good one for an aquarium installation. If the floor shakes as you walk by, the effect will be even more amplified when an aquarium is placed there. When deciding where to place the aquarium, make sure the wall and the surrounding area is as solid as possible.

Stay away from windows

Light in the aquarium is extremely important. Natural light is one of the worst things to allow into an aquarium, the only light that should enter the tank is from artificial lighting that you control. There are two reasons for this. Natural light is powerful, it supercharges one celled plants called algae and lets them explode in population quite easily. If natural light gets into the tank on a daily basis, the algae will become a constant problem for the clarity of the water. It will also coat the sides of the tank. You want to look at the fish, you want the plants to grow naturally and sunlight simply throws a wrench into that plan. Find a location, on a supporting wall, well away from ambient sunlight. It is much easier to control the look of the tank when it is not allowed into the water.

Sunlight also adds a lot of heat, as well. When an aquarium is placed in direct sunlight, the water in the system can rise and fall a few degrees every day. That constant adjustment the fish must make with their metabolism can begin to take a toll on their life systems. They are cold blooded, poikilothermic, meaning their bodies are at approximately the same temperature as the water they swim in. If it rises and falls a considerable amount each day, their metabolisms are stressed and opened to possible disease and illnesses that can be avoided by ensuing the only lighting in the aquarium is from artificial lighting that is totally controlled by the aquarists.

Stay away from Heating and cooling ducts

In the same way that sunlight can cause temperature problems with an aquarium. It is very difficult to regulate an even and steady temperature on an aquarium that is situated over an air conditioning or heating duct. The same applies for ceiling outlets as well. Be sure there is no chance that the heating and cooling of the home in anyway is exposed to the aquarium.

Summing up

Water is very heavy, a 5 gallon tank, on average weighs 50 pounds, a 100 gallon tank can weigh up to a half ton! All tanks over 10 gallons should never be put on standard furniture, they should always be placed onto specifically manufactured aquarium stands. If not, there is a very good chance that the tank may suffer a stress crack in the sides if the support shifts. Modern aquariums are made with glass and silicone sealant, making them very strong, but shifting the bottom plate can result in the most vulnerable area of the tank, the edges, being so stressed that they can crack.

Tank location is vital, make sure the tank is placed on a load bearing wall, non-structural walls and islands have a tendency to move and wave as people pass by, causing those ripples to be felt in the tank and adding extra stress on the glass plates as time goes by. Be sure that the tank is placed away from all sources of heat and cold, especially the chance of natural light physically entering the tank and having a chance to spur the growth of algae and possibly overheating then cooling the tank on a regular basis. Uneven temperature over time stresses the fish and it is much simpler simply to avoid placing the habitat in locations where heating and cooling ducts, as well as windows can affect the environment your precious specimens must reside.

Freshwater Tropical Fish of the Week

Puntius tetrazoni -Tiger Barb, Albino Tiger Barb, Green Platinum Tiger Barb

Puntius tetrazona - Tiger Barb, Albino Tiger Barb, Green Platinum Tiger Barb

Puntius tetrazona, also known as the Tiger Barb, comes in many color variations, some naturally occuring, others are genetically maniplated. Tiger barbs are a species of freshwater fish that belongs to the Cyprinidae family, commonly known as the barbs. Here are some of the most common characteristics of this species:

Puntius Tetrazoni - Tiger Barb

Physical appearance: Puntius tetrazona has a slender and elongated body with a distinctive tiger-like pattern of black stripes on a yellow-orange or albino background. Albino individuals are all-white with red eyes.

Size: Puntius tetrazona can grow up to 8 cm (3 inches) in length.

Habitat: Puntius tetrazona is native to the streams, rivers, and swamps of Southeast Asia. They prefer a well-planted aquarium with slow-moving or still water and plenty of hiding places.

Diet: Puntius tetrazona is an omnivore and will feed on a variety of foods including flakes, pellets, frozen, and live foods. They are also known to feed on algae, insects, and small crustaceans in their natural habitat.

Behavior: Puntius tetrazona is a peaceful and social fish that can be kept in groups. They are active swimmers and enjoy swimming in the open areas of the aquarium.

Puntius Tetrazoni - Albino Tiger Barb

Breeding: Puntius tetrazona is an egg-laying species and will often lay their eggs on the leaves of plants or other objects in the aquarium. They are also known to be avid spawners, producing large numbers of eggs in a single breeding session.

Water requirements: Puntius tetrazona prefers a slightly acidic to neutral water pH, with a temperature range of 22-28°C (72-82°F). They are relatively hardy and can adapt to a range of water conditions, as long as the conditions are stable and not subject to sudden changes.

Puntius Tetrazoni - Green Tiger Barb

Compatibility: Puntius tetrazona is a peaceful species and can be kept with a variety of other freshwater fish, as long as they are not too aggressive or larger than the Albino Tiger Barbs. They are a good choice for a community aquarium.

Trivia Question❓

What colorful freshwater tropical fish is known for its distinct bubble-shaped head and vibrant orange coloration?

Answer at the bottom of the newsletter

The Community

When to add fish

I started my first fish tank in the 60's, a time when the selection of fish was nowhere close to what is offered in live fish stores these days. The standard type of aquarium used the fish that were available at the time, mainly livebearers that seemed to live togther reasonably well. Mine included guppies, a swordtail trio and a few platies.

You are in a much better position to select a much wider variety of compatible fish that will live together well and be able to withstand the problems all new aquarium systems undergo for the first couple of months or so.

Livebearers, like the ones I had as my very first tank, are not the very best species to select, in many cases, but they are quite possible if that is where you want to go. I was lucky, and with no outside help, was still very successful and became enchanted with the underwater world ever since. A livebearer tank like this is very informative for young children interested in the way life proceeds. They are extremely easy to breed and give birth to live fry. That is not the normal way of fish, who much more commonly lay eggs, but it is a true learning experience for all.

If keeping fish is not primarily teaching life lessons, there is a wide array of other fish that can be considerred. As a new aquarist, one of the most exciting yet daunting tasks is selecting the right mix of fish to populate your vibrant underwater habitat. The key is striking a balance between compatible species that can thrive together in a cohesive community. While the options may seem endless, there are several go-to tropical fish communities that are perfectly suited for the novice enthusiast.

A perennial favorite for beginning aquarists is the peaceful community tank. There are so many possibilities in this single type that it hs been given this column as a regular featire. Too many new aquarists make a mistake with the right selection that it is best to expand on these habitat concepts to help understand what the true factors may be in selction.

This classic setup often features a harmonious blend of schooling fish, such as neon tetras, cardinal tetras, or some trios of guppies. These vibrant, active swimmers will dance gracefully through the water, captivating you with their iridescent colors and natural behaviors. However, one of the most important things you can do right from the start is find a reliable live fish store with experienced experts to help provide advice in your initial fish purchases. While these bright fish are often the main components of community tanks, they are rarely strong enough to survive the rigors of the first coule of months after the tank is established.

I recommend much hardier fish, such as black skirt tetras, and zebra danios, I have oftren found that neon and cardinal tertas are not strong enough in the beginning and should only be added after the biological filter is firmly established. The advice of seasoned aquarists is invaluable in determining the type of fish you want to keep and the ones that are able to handle the local area water conditions. The intial success is matching the requirements of the fish, their general personality and the ability to weather the initial changes in water chemistry over the first couple of months.

While we will go into this phenomenon in future columns - under the regular equipment or filtration columns, it is important to remember that the water matures in a new aquarium and changes radically in the first month. The fish you select to ride this process must be quite hardy as they are dealing with problem that many fish cannot tolerate.

You are certainly not saddled with just a couple of species, especially since the aquarium industry has matured and rapid transportation of live fish by airplane from their native habitats has increased the chances of survival well over what it was in my beginning days. The variety of species that can be delivered to your local live fish store has increased radically, today we all have so much more choice in species that it takes more and more expertise to understand what fish can be compatible, that or long experience with keeping and mixing fish.

Not all is lost, however. Another rewarding option is to establish a passive, but vibrant community centered around the iconic betta fish - Betta splendens. Often referred to as "Siamese fighting fish," these gorgeous specimens come in a dazzling array of hues and fin types. While male bettas are famously territorial and should never be housed together, they can make peaceful tankmates with compatible community fish. Consider pairing your betta with schooling species like rasboras or danios, as well as tranquil bottom-feeders like Corydoras catfish. Just be sure to provide ample hiding places and a densely planted aquascape to allow your betta to claim its own space.

Many people will tell you that you require some bottom fish right from the start. Rounding out the community, you might add a few peaceful bottom-dwellers like Corydoras catfish or Otocinclus algae eaters to keep the substrate clean. The key is to choose fish with similar temperaments and environmental needs to ensure a thriving, low-maintenance ecosystem.

The reasoning is somewhat misguided in most cases. While bottom fish are excellent in well establiched aquariumn habitats, they are not as neccessary n btand new set-ups. A new tank is truly sterile, if propeely installed, the water is able to support fish, but it is not the besdst environemnt for weak fish. Bottom fish are oftern quite strong, but they do need to eat, and a new aquariumn has very little food in it, and should have no algae either. Like many other fish, it is bnest to wait a few weeks before adding bottom fish such as Corydoras and Otocinclus, or even Plecostomus to the fish population.

Q/A Questions

Q: What is the recommended water temperature range for most freshwater tropical fish?

A: The recommended water temperature range for most freshwater tropical fish is between 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

Q: How often should I feed my freshwater tropical fish?

A: Typically, freshwater tropical fish should be fed small amounts 1-2 times per day. It's important not to overfeed them as it can lead to water quality issues.

Q: What is the best way to acclimate new fish to my aquarium?

A: The best way to acclimate new fish to your aquarium is by floating the bag in the tank for 15-20 minutes to allow the water temperatures to equalize. Then, slowly add small amounts of your tank water to the bag over the course of 30 minutes to an hour before releasing the fish into the tank.

Filtration Options

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Beyond the Basics:

Advanced Aquarist Adventures

Popular Fish Species for Aquarists

There are lots of types of fish that can be comfortably kept in aquariums that do not fall into the general category of passive community fish. It is usually a good idea for a new aquarist to house the more passive species that go together well. This reduces frivtion in the aquaroum and allows a broader variety of types to co-exist. This prevents a situation where a fish attacks and harms others on the tank.

Human natire often cratws the case where an aquarist wants to keep something diffeent from common fish, I was one of those, and at one time ended up with ten tanks in a relatively small apartment because I couldn't keep al the species tgogether withiut war in each.

Thart wa about the tie that I discovere the cichlids - these are usally larger fish that have teeth abnd show definite, often aggressive, parental behaviour as they spawn, protect and raise their fry. Cichlids are found around rthe world, common pecies come from Central America, South America and throughout Africa, but especially the rift lakes that have creates a huge variety of specialized varieties.

Tip of The Day

Add variety to your fish's diet by offering a mix of live, frozen, and dried foods.

This will help ensure they receive all the necessary nutrients for optimal health and vibrant colors.

Kid's Nook

Aquascpaping the freshwater tropical fish aquarium

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💡 Answer to Trivia Question:

The Flowerhorn Cichlid

Flowerhorn Cichlid -Photo by pvproductions on freepik.com